Sunday, March 20, 2011
Studio To-Do List
Saturday, March 19, 2011
First or Second?
You can sort of see which way I'm leaning.
Friday, March 4, 2011
I was going to mix glazes out in the shed today, but as it is 12 below zero -- surely a record for this date, in Augusta, Maine! -- I am thinking glaze mixing can wait. Instead, I'll share a secret with you: I have a latex fetish.
I owe this recent fascination to a buddy of mine at Portland Pottery, whose name I will not mention here, as I do not wish her name to be forever associated by the gods of google with the phrase "latex fetish." The latex resist product to which my friend (let's call her "Kelly") introduced me is a brushable product that comes in a jar (you can find it about 3/4 of the way down the page here.) I find it a bit viscous for my purposes - brushing and trailing -- but thinning with water works well. I've tried wax as a resist, both paraffin and water-based, but they each have their issues. Hot paraffin is hard to control, and harder to remove, when it inevitably runs where you don't want it. Water-based wax is easier to control and remove errors, but less effective as a resist: it still needs to be sponged off, thoroughly, or you end up with little beads of glaze on your intended clear areas. This is particularly annoying in the case of linear designs, as attempting to clean up skinny little lines can mess up the glaze surface around them.
Latex resist has an additional advantage over wax, in that it can be (in fact, should be) removed prior to firing, for a very sharp glaze line. This makes it forgiving, also: water-based wax needs to be scraped and sanded, should you put it where it doesn't belong, and never mind hot wax. Might as well either work with the goof, or re-bisque. After you remove the latex, you can then apply glaze to the bare area if you like, which allows multiple glaze applications with or without overlap. Here is the fired result of the latex-decorated butter dish above:One thing about it though -- the latex resist is funny over flashing slip. Since the slip is applied pretty thinly to start with, removing the latex takes off enough to change the fired appearance of the slip. So you can't just use it to preserve a straight glaze edge, then peel it and forget it. However, that it s quality you can take advantage of, and utilize latex to make shadow images on your flashing-slip-treated surfaces. I haven't explored this possibility much. Yet.
A combination of trailed and brushed resist is the easiest way to make checkerboard pattern on a rounded surface, such as the exterior of a bowl. Put the bowl upside down on a banding wheel, and draw out the grid, like so:
One more, just because I like it:
Potters who are sticklers for straight lines can use a pencil and a flexible metal rib to draw them on before applying the resist.
Latex will utterly ruin your brushes, so don't use good ones. I use cheap, acrylic-bristle brushes, and run them a couple of times over a wet bar of soap before using, but this only delays the inevitable. I made the mistake of trying this with a good bamboo brush, and it was instantly destroyed, do not pass go, do not collect $200. And, if you use a glaze trailing pen, rinse the nib immediately after use (I blow through it to make sure it's clear) and store it with a piece of wire push through the nib. Otherwise you can kiss that good-bye, also.
I was hoping to fire these on Sunday, but the bitterly cold weather has me reconsidering. Anyway, I'll post the finished pots when I have them. Ciao for now!